Miri Food Hunt

Like I said, I'll post something up about Malaysia since I bash it up so much recently. I'll cover Miri today. I've been there studying for 3 years for my undergrad studies. Those were the bittersweet days. Sorry no pictures since I haven't been there recently.

If anyone ask me about the Miri food scene, I'll say its the worst you'll ever be in. The portions are ridiculous, prices going up like rockets, food don't taste like food, service sucks big time and a visit to the foodstall will most likely get you food poisoning. It is not uncommon to see cockroaches and rats. Even fast food don't taste as nice as they should be.

But like even the dirtiest lake and swamp, lotus grows (Lotus symbolise purity, hence the traditional depiction of the buddhas on a lotus.) I'll cover some of the very, very, very few food stall and restaurant in Miri that I will likely to introduce people to, if anyone ask me where to eat in Miri.

First up is Sultana Cafe. It is located in the Pelita region where the Servay department store and Grand Palace Hotel is. It faces the main road towards the hills. The cafe is on the ground floor beside Alfresco and opposite of Cheerie Berrie and Balcony. Anyone that goes clubbing often will most likely know the place. For non-Miri resident, this is the area frequented mostly by Curtin students and transexuals. In the middle of chaos and sin, stand a cafe that is a beacon of good "taste" hehe. The specialty of the cafe (cafe in Miri isn't exactly a cafe as you and I know it. Its just the name.) is traditional Kelabit food. The Kelabits are highlanders and the reside in the famed Bario highland in the middle of Sarawak. The food I highly recommend if you go there would be the "Nuba Laya" (RM8.00) it is suppose to sound like Nu-bak La-yak. Nuba means "wrap" Laya means "rice". Hence Nuba Laya is wrapped rice. The dish comes with a small bowl of porridge, beef floss, a piece of fish, a service of vegetable of the day and of course a wrapped rice. It sounds like there is a lot to eat but its just that. The portion is ridiculously small just like most of Miri. The porridge are really good especially a type which are slightly bitter. The beef floss is what I really love most in there. The taste is undescribeable, I'm not poetic enough. Nothing special about the fish and vegetable. The rice is pretty different though, it is Bario rice that are somehow grounded before cooking so it is almost like porridge without enough water. Usually I would order "dessert" since the portion is small. The dessert of choice is "Lubak" or something like that, it is black glutinous rice "kuih" that are fried. Yummy, it has a crispy skin yet is soft and chewy on the inside. (For cheaper Nuba Laya (RM1), go down town to a place called "Atun & Endai Cafe" beside Tien Tien Restaurant (nope, not chicken rice place) located behind the Lorenzo furniture place and the area with the only HSBC)

The second place I would recommend is Warung Najua. It is right after the last roundabout from town and is situated beside the Petronas petrol station. They serve Malay food. Which I actually find sub-standard but they is one thing I really like from them. Their "Tom Yum" (RM4++) it is the most sour tom yum I have ever tried and it simply delicious. For those that can't stand sourish or spicy food, you can always order burger, satay or "niang tofu" from the stalls. The "niang tofu" they serve is very different from the one we Chinese have. The original Niang Tofu is actually tofu (several varieties), chili and bittergourd stuffed with seasoned meat and cooked in soup and served with "tang hoon". The Malay version is more like "lok-lok" which are tofu, fish balls, crab balls, prawn balls, water spinach and stuff boiled in water. One interesting thing is that they are served with rojak sauce. But you must be careful, its been several times that they serve food that is already partly rotten. If it taste slightly sourish, don't eat.

The third place I would recommend if you have a craving for Chicken rice. It is called "Zheng Chicken Rice" (RM3.00)it is located right beside the Krokop market or "pasar". To find the place, you just turn in from the small roundabout with a Rotary International sculpture and then go left on the traffic light and then turn right on the smaller traffic light. The chicken rice is the best in Miri but pitiful compared to our very own "Tien Tien Chicken Rice". As usual, the portion is small, so don't be afraid to ask for second serving of rice.

Another place I would recommend is the "Taj Tandoori" restaurant it is in Lutong, the old one. It is right before the brigde and a landmark there is a small mosque or masjid. It is on the shop lots on the right and at the corner. Here, you can find some of the very best Indian food in Miri. And the boss actually get excited when we asked for Tandoori chicken. He would personally come out and ask about the orders and will personally cook it eventhough he is wearing his smart business casual. Interesting ain't it? The tandoori chicken is very good but it cost pretty expensive though. RM7 for a quarter of a chicken, and I usually would ask for the leg part. This is actually one of the few places in Miri where the roti will be made by an actual Indian not a Malay or Iban fellow.

The fifth place I would recommend is one of the "pasar" in the old town area. The bigger one with more stalls for vegetables. This place has very good Chicken Kolo Mee (RM 3.00) available day and night but to stay out of the dinner crowd, we usually go at around eight pm. This is the only place in the whole of Miri that I would order Kolo Mee. It taste very, very good and is actually very different from the foul tasting Miri version of Kolo Mee. Oh yeah, it comes with a serving of steamed chicken ala chicken rice. Oh yeah expect to wait a long time and do order a second serving. The portion is very small. They serve respectable porridge also. The pasar also is a great place to buy "Kuih" but you usually have to wake up before dawn can get there by the time of sunrise to be able to get what you want before they ran out of stock.

Speaking about porridge, ther is a great place for porridge in Lutong. It is located behind Taj and is located in "Lutong Cafe" which, of course is not very cafe like. They serve very, very good porridge(RM2.50) with egg. It is cooked with minced meat and huge pieces of bones to enhance the flavour.

For those looking for Japanese food, stay out of Shiki! Instead, go to Nikko Japanese Restaurant. It is located behind Valenci Park car showroom. To get there just turn in to the junction sandwiched between the park and Saberkas Commercial area in the Boulevard roundabout with the new flyover. From that road just drive down and you'll notice the big glass building ie the Valencia Park and turn in on the junction between Valencia Park and the White apartment like building. Then turn right on the next junction and go to the second last building. This place serve really good Japanese food and the service is pretty good. But one warning! IT is very, very pricey! Many of the food cost almost twice their Bruneian counterpart. Be prepared to spend almost RM100 each time you go. Beside Nikko, there is this Slippery Senorita owned by the same owner serving western food. Never been there but I heard the Tiramisu is great but the place is said to be more expensive than Nikko. Bring RM200 with you, just to be safe.

For the people that don't want to end up hungry after each meal, you can go to Pong's Cafe the portions they serve is huge and usually almost twice the amount typical Miri restaurant serve. The food taste bad but I still go there when I am especially hungry. Hunger makes everything taste nicer they say. It is located behind Apollo Inn or Hotel, whichever and its on the left and there is a small park there beside Pong's.

And of course the best restaurant of all. Drumrolls please. Fratini! It is franchise from Brunei and they have two branches in Miri (and one in KK). This is where I go to when I miss the quality of Brunei's food. Here you get the cleanest environment, friendly service (found out some actually used to work in Brunei's Fratini, no wonder), tastiest food and acceptable portions. Fratini serves Italian food (duh!). The price is almost like Brunei's conversion-wise. To find Fratini just use the other big road behind Boulevard Commercial Centre and it is beside the yellowish Courts Mammoth building. The other one, smalller and called Piccolo Fratini is in town on the new commercial area after Tamu Muhibbah. It faces the road that leads to the Chinese Temple.

That sums it all I think. Basically Miri sucks but they do have some pretty nice finds. But do be careful when you eat in Miri.